Modern kitchen sets consist of separate modules, wall cabinets, floor cabinets and pencil cases. The unifying elements give the furniture a holistic look: a single kitchen countertop, an apron, a cornice and a plinth. If you want to save money, “assemble” your kitchen in bulk from modules from series of well-known manufacturers. But be prepared for compromise solutions: it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to choose the ideal size and contents of a kitchen from standard modules. Another budget option is to make your own kitchen. Drawings of kitchen cabinets with dimensions for manufacturing will help you in drawing up a design project and subsequently calculating the costs of purchasing materials and components.
Advantages of a homemade drawing
The obvious advantages of a homemade kitchen drawing include the following aspects:
The ability to take into account all factors (dimensions of the room, location of window openings, material for making the furniture). High-quality drawings allow you to carry out optimal planning even in the smallest and most non-standard rooms, for example, a kitchen measuring 2 meters. In practical work, the master is helped by knowledge of the location of communication lines and expected changes in these lines.
The ability to independently model the future interior of the kitchen and dining area, plans for redevelopment, combination and zoning of premises.
In practice, when preparing a plan at home, the costs of specialist services are excluded. The freed up funds can be spent on materials for interior decoration or decorative design of the room.
In the process of creating a kitchen drawing with dimensions, the master himself controls the quality of the project, the schematic representation of the details and features in the drawing.
For each section of the drawing (room layout, manufacture and location of furniture, electrical wiring, socket outlet points), you can prepare a separate drawing, the quality of which depends on the skills of the owner.
Why do it yourself
First, a kitchen project is drawn with rough sketches and ideas, then all this is transferred to a drawing with exact dimensions
Why make a kitchen with your own hands when you can buy it ready-made? In fact, there are a lot of benefits and advantages:
- Ideally suited to the configuration and size of the kitchen;
- allows you to use every centimeter of space to the maximum;
- individual design - there will be no other kitchen like it;
- you can save up to 50% of the cost of furniture.
Drawing Options
The kitchen drawing includes not only a schematic representation of the room itself, but also a display of communication lines, the location of the set, its parts and an assembly diagram (for self-made furniture). The following technically important parameters must be displayed on paper:
- Dimensions and area of the room.
- Location of window openings and their sizes to scale.
- Direction of communication lines (electrical lines, water supply, sewerage, gas for the stove). Particular attention is paid to these criteria, because the entire layout of the future kitchen depends entirely on the location of communications.
- Model of the future furniture set and its shape, features of production and assembly. For example, a drawing of a corner kitchen can be displayed in several different variations, which have meaning in practice.
The next factor is not necessary for independent drawing, but it is better to pay special attention to it. It is important to display all the features of the interior decoration of the kitchen space on a pre-drawn diagram in order to carry out repair work strictly according to the specified points.
Carrying out installation and assembly operations
Tools for work
To assemble the blanks into a single structure, you will need tools, some of them are in every home, others will have to be purchased. But they will definitely come in handy later for other repair or construction work.
Tools you can't do without when assembling furniture
So, the tools you need to prepare are:
- An electric drill and a set of wood drills, including confirmation ones for furniture screws.
- Screwdriver.
- Bits of different sizes for a screwdriver, including hexagons.
- Construction square.
- Level.
- Clamps, at least 4 pieces.
- Pliers and hammer.
- Scissors.
- A syringe gun for applying “liquid nails” glue and sealant.
- Iron for gluing edges.
Kitchen set assembly
The most difficult thing is to start the assembly process, because craftsmen who do not have experience in this work do not know where to start. Once the first steps are completed, the process will go faster. In fact, the blanks are a kind of “constructor” from which the kitchen must be assembled.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
| The first thing to do is to sort out the blanks, arranging them by size, guided by the project drawing, which also shows all the parameters of the headset. After the parts are distributed into piles, it is recommended to sign them, indicating their belonging - walls, shelves, etc. Such preparatory measures will greatly simplify the work. | |
| After cutting, the ends of the panels facing the facade, as well as those intended for cabinet doors, must be covered with a special edge tape of a color that is in harmony with the main shade of the set. The tape is fixed using a heated iron. When the tape is heated, it should protrude slightly beyond the edges of the panel. After the material has cooled, this excess must be immediately carefully cut off with a sharp knife. An ordinary stationery knife with a new blade will be suitable for this purpose. | |
| The process begins with assembling the floor part of the headset. Therefore, it is necessary to take the lower panels of the structure and immediately attach adjustable legs to them, if they are provided for in the project. To do this, the panels mark the installation locations of such supports. Then the legs are applied to the marked points, and the points are marked on the panel with a pencil through the holes provided for fastening. Next, blind holes for fasteners are drilled along the marks. It is best to first place the legs on glue, and then additionally screw them with self-tapping screws. The legs can be attached in different ways - this depends on the selected model of the part. The legs should be secured to all bottom panels. | |
| The next step is to assemble the walls of one of the cabinets. To make them stand at right angles to each other, you can use perforated corners made of metal 2 mm thick, so the connection must have a certain rigidity. Of course, it is recommended to first check these corners to see how perpendicular their shelves are. You can come up with another “conductor” that will help align the two mating panels exactly at right angles. The corners are fixed at the top and bottom at the junction of the panels using clamps. | |
| Then, the fastened walls must be screwed together with screws, for which socket holes are drilled using a commercial drill. The drill is designed to form a hole that has different diameters at different levels required for this Euroscrew. Thanks to this configuration of the socket, the screw will tightly hold the two panels, and its head will fit into the chipboard flush with the wall surface. You can, of course, use ordinary drills, but you will have to constantly rearrange them, and the work will go much slower. A special drill is not so expensive, especially since it will have plenty of work to do when assembling the set. | |
| The panels must be fastened at three points by drilling sockets at a distance of 50 mm from the top and bottom edges, as well as in the middle of the joining pieces. To accurately mark the location of the hole, 8 mm should be retreated from the side edge, with a chipboard thickness of 16 mm and 9 mm, with a panel thickness of 18 mm. To screw a furniture screw, a hexagonal bit attachment is installed into the screwdriver. All chipboard panels are fastened together in a similar way. | |
| To make it clearer, the illustration shows the principle of connecting two perpendicular parts with confirmations. | |
| The bottom panel of the cabinet is also first fixed to the side walls with clamps, and then twisted with furniture screws. | |
| Another way to mutually fix the panels can be wooden choppers - dowels with a diameter of 8 mm. They are installed in sockets drilled in the end of one panel and along the edge of the other. The dowels are carefully driven into these holes, previously coated with glue. This installation method is more complex and requires perfectly precise marking of the drilling holes. | |
| In order for the marking to be accurate, after gluing the dowels into the lower end of the wall, it is laid with a shift on the bottom panel, leveled and tightened with clamps. After this, on the bottom panel, focusing on the already installed dowels, mark the points at which holes are drilled, with a diameter and depth corresponding to the size of the fasteners. Then, the holes are filled with glue and the side wall of the cabinet is joined. In order for the panels to be assembled exactly at right angles, the metal corners should be fixed to them in the same way as in the first option using clamps. They can be removed after the glue has dried. | |
| After the walls are fastened to the bottom panel, the back panel, made of fiberboard or thin plywood, is nailed with small nails, staplers, or screwed onto small self-tapping screws. | |
| In the upper part, the side walls are connected to each other by two narrow boards, which will give rigidity to the design of the cabinet and will be the basis for securing the tabletop. They are installed on the inside of the walls and are also screwed with confirmatory furniture screws. You will need 2 of them for each side to be secured. | |
| If a cabinet for drawers is being assembled, then before fastening the walls to the bottom panel, their internal surfaces are marked, and according to the markings, retractable mechanisms are installed on them (they can have different designs). It is clear that the installation of these guides on opposite walls must be strictly symmetrical. Of course, this process can be carried out in an already assembled closet, but it is inconvenient and quite difficult to do - it is both dark and cramped. | |
| If you plan to attach front doors to the cabinet, then before installing hinges you need to mark and arrange mounting slots for them in advance. To drill mounting holes, a special cutter of the required diameter is used. When marking, it is necessary to maintain a distance from the edge of the panel to the edge of the mounting socket - it should be 5 mm. | |
| To ensure that the hinges are installed evenly and the doors are not skewed, the wall and door are laid on a flat surface, and markings for arranging the mounting slots and mounting holes are made on them simultaneously. A socket of the required diameter is drilled on the side wall, and the corresponding part of the loop is installed into it. Then, focusing on it, the attachment points of the reciprocal mounting pad on the door are marked. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled according to the markings. After this, the hinges are screwed on and their operation is checked. Further, they can be temporarily dismantled and installed permanently after assembling the cabinet. | |
| This photo shows the installation of the assembled cabinets into the overall structure. In this case, each of the floor cabinets has its own walls, but it is possible that the walls act as partitions in the overall structure. However, it must be taken into account that in the latter case, a higher load will fall on the partitions, so it is not recommended to have many shelves and drawers. The assembled structure is leveled, adjusting the height of the support legs if necessary. | |
| Next, the front doors can be finally fixed to the walls of the cabinets (cabinets). Installing them will not be difficult, since the necessary holes have already been prepared for their fastening. The door handles are screwed on. | |
| The next step is to install a worktop on the cabinets that are level and fastened together. It can be solid or have different connecting joints - straight or diagonal, depending on the layout of the kitchen unit. Having prepared and adjusted the parts of the countertop, mark the areas where the sink and hob will be embedded. | |
| The edges of the sink, depending on its model, can be installed on top of the countertop or flush with it. The illustration shows a variant of a built-in kitchen sink. It is best to mark the window for it using a pattern, which manufacturers often include with the sink. If there is no cutting diagram, then you should do it yourself: place the bowl on a sheet of cardboard and trace its outline with a pencil. | |
| The opening for the kitchen sink is cut using an electric jigsaw. First, a through hole is drilled on the marking line in the tabletop - it is necessary for inserting a jigsaw file. Some craftsmen prefer to attach masking tape to the outer marking line, which will prevent the edge from chipping and will be a good guide when carrying out work. In the same way, a hole for the hob is marked and cut. | |
| An important nuance. In a cut-out opening for a sink or hob, the end walls are completely defenseless against moisture penetration. And water that has leaked onto the chipboard and penetrated its structure can cause it to swell and deform. Therefore, experienced professionals strongly recommend performing another operation. A strip of silicone sealant is applied to the cut ends of the opening, and then distributed so that the entire cut is densely covered with this composition. After this, without waiting for the sealant to cool, you can proceed to installing the sink or hob. | |
| Attaching a kitchen sink to a countertop window can be done in different ways, depending on its model. Most often, such sinks are attached to the back of the countertop using special adjustable hook brackets, which are included in the delivery package. | |
| On the underside of the supporting sides of the sink, before installing it in the prepared opening, it is necessary to apply a layer of sealant that will close the gaps formed between the sink and the countertop and prevent water from leaking. | |
| Before the final installation of the tabletop, its cut ends must be covered with special aluminum overlays that exactly follow the shape of the cross-section of the panel. These pads are available left and right. Before installing the overlay, a strip of silicone sealant is applied to the end... | |
| ...which is then distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. This is easy to do with a finger dipped in soapy water. | |
| After this, the overlay is installed, aligned exactly along the edges and fixed with self-tapping screws - for this purpose there are holes on it. That's it, the end is protected. Similarly - on the other edge of the tabletop. | |
| Next, the tabletop is installed on the assembled floor structure of the set and fixed with self-tapping screws from their inside through the crossbars discussed above. | |
| Of course, they always try to make the countertop solid, that is, consisting of one piece. The length of standard panels (up to 4000 mm) usually allows this. On a straight section, it is best to do without joints. But if the set has a corner configuration, then you will have to make a perpendicular joint. The gaps between the individual parts of the tabletop are closed with a strip specially designed for this purpose. Installation of the strip is similar to the end strip. But in this case, this connecting part already has a somewhat named configuration, ensuring the joining of the rounded front side with the cut end. | |
| You can decorate the edge of the tabletop adjacent to the wall in different ways. Some people prefer to frame the work surface with a special plinth, while others prefer to frame it with a strip of the same material from which the table top is made (as shown in the illustration). Still others even install it as an apron; they fix an entire panel of the tabletop on the wall with the curly edge up, connecting it to a horizontal surface. | |
| To install wall-mounted cabinets, special adjustable hangers can be used, on which you can move the cabinet along the metal profile, as well as pull it closer to the wall, eliminating unnecessary gaps between surfaces. | |
| To secure the hangers to the cabinet, you need to cut slots for them in the back wall of the cabinet. Brackets are inserted into them and screwed from behind to its side wall. | |
| The brackets fixed to the cabinet are inserted into the profile, which is pre-fixed with dowels to the wall along the entire length of the set and, of course, is aligned strictly horizontally. Thanks to the profile, all cabinets will be located on the wall at the same level, and they can be moved slightly if the need arises during the final installation of the entire set. | |
| The assembly of table drawers follows the same principle as floor cabinets and wall cabinets. The difference is that the four walls of the structure are fastened together. To facilitate the process, it is recommended to mark the workpieces, that is, mark the area of their joint on the parts to be fastened, placing one of them end-to-end on the edge of the other, and then draw a line with a pencil. | |
| Next, in the marked area, using a thin drill, you need to mark two holes, exactly in the middle between the edge and the drawn line, departing from the upper and lower edges of the workpiece by 20÷25 mm. The same process must be performed with the other part of the box - these will be its front and back walls. | |
| Next, the parts with drilled holes are pressed against the end of the side walls, and through the drilled holes they are fastened together with furniture screws. | |
| When all four walls of the cabinet are connected to each other, the bottom of the structure, made of fiberboard or plywood, is nailed using nails 20 mm long. At the same time, the resulting box will be “automatically” aligned strictly according to the shape of the rectangle. If you plan to store fairly heavy kitchen utensils in a drawer, then the bottom can be screwed on with 3x20 mm self-tapping screws in increments of about 50 mm. | |
| Guides for drawer mechanisms are usually attached to the lower side edge of the drawer. But there are other designs of similar runners. In any case, they must be combined with the counterpart parts of the mechanism attached to the walls of the cabinet body. | |
| The lowest drawer is installed first. After the operation of the retractable mechanism has been checked, the drawer is removed from the body to install the front panel and handle on it. The width of the façade overlay must be equal to the width of the cabinet body. First, the location of the handle is marked, then the front is fixed on the front wall of the drawer using clamps, and through the markings, through holes are drilled through both panels. | |
| Next, two holes are drilled on the inside of the box, which should be located at a distance of 80÷100 mm from the side edges. The holes in the drawer wall should be through, and in the front panel they should be deepened by 8÷10 mm. The diameter of the holes should be 8 mm. Then glue is poured into the hole and wooden dowels are carefully driven in. The last step is to screw a handle onto the box from the inside, which will tighten the wall and the facade together. It is best to remove the clamps after the glue has dried. | |
| Once the bottom drawer is completely finished and installed, the same process is performed with the drawer that will be located above it. But the front panel, of course, is fixed on it taking into account the height of the front of the lower drawer. The rest of the retractable parts of the structure are installed in the same way. |
* * * * * * *
As can be seen from the description, when assembling the blanks into a single set, you will have to deal with quite a large number of small, difficult nuances. But, at the same time, this work is extremely interesting.
In addition, by making a kitchen yourself, you can significantly save your family budget. To make sure of this, it is necessary, just for fun, to find out the cost of everything necessary for independent work and calculate the purchase budget, compare it with the cost of the finished headset.
Find out how to make a kitchen corner with your own hands in a special article on our portal.
As a bonus, we offer you to watch an interesting video. It shows the process of self-manufacturing an original kitchen set, which is completely uncomplicated even for a novice craftsman, in which exclusively natural lumber is used.
Room layout on the drawing
The first and most important parameter that should be depicted on the plan diagram is the layout and shape of the room. The master has the opportunity to independently display on a sheet a drawing of a kitchen measuring 3*6 meters, 3*4 meters or any other size. It is important to write these parameters directly in the plan diagram itself, using a scale.
All building niches, alcoves, and auxiliary rooms available in the room must be shown in the image with dimensions indicated. Subsequently, you can make optimal use of the available free space for arranging furniture with a transformation function, built-in wardrobes, folding tables and other auxiliary accessories. Combined kitchens deserve special attention after the demolition of wall panels and partitions.
What to consider
When developing a kitchen layout, you need to take into account a number of nuances and follow certain rules.
If you are planning to draw a kitchen project yourself, then remember that you need to start from considerations of functionality and only then you need to think about the design
Household appliances and furniture should be placed in the following order:
- fridge;
- washing;
- work area (desk);
- plate.
Whatever the size of the kitchen and the layout, the length of the countertop should not be less than 50 cm. This is a requirement for the ergonomics of the space.
You shouldn’t place the stove completely in the corner of the room - the layout of a small kitchen will, of course, look more beautiful and rational this way, but in practice the wall will constantly be stained with drops of grease.
Image of communication lines
A mandatory element on the plan diagram is the direction of power lines, water supply, sewerage and gas (if there is a gas stove). Also on a separate sheet are the locations of outlet points, distribution boxes, electrical panels and switch keys.
Be sure to place all water supply taps and sewer pipes, heating pipes and appliances on the diagram. In the future, these parameters may be needed in the event of a malfunction or new repairs or redevelopment of the kitchen space.
Furniture made to measure
Ordering a kitchen set according to individual sizes will require some waiting time for production and associated costs. The advantages of custom-made furniture include the opportunity to arrange the most stylish and comfortable kitchen in full accordance with your wishes.
Manufacturing individual furniture makes it possible to select the most convenient sink sizes for the kitchen and think through in detail the filling of the modules.
Such furniture makes it possible to implement any design solution, without forgetting the necessary standards and requirements.
Location of the kitchen unit
The next stage for the master is to display on the drawing the location of the kitchen unit and the shape of its main elements. Depending on the type of arrangement and placement of furniture, there are several main types of layout:
- The linear arrangement option, which is the most popular and in demand among designers.
- Corner or L-shaped type of kitchen area layout.
- T-shaped kitchens are new in the world of practical design and interior design.
- Non-standard G-shaped layouts that are ideal for a combined kitchen.
Double-row and island types of furniture arrangement are also quite well known among designers and owners of apartments (private houses). For transformable furniture, indicate all built-in additional panels (folding tables, built-in sofas, sofa chair) folded and unfolded. This is necessary for the correct organization of the available space and the optimal arrangement of other interior items.
Features of creating a design project for a kitchen combined with a living and dining room
By creating a kitchen-living room design in the interior of an apartment, you can use more space to accommodate the necessary furniture and appliances. As a result of combining the rooms, a spacious room is formed, which will be enough to receive a large number of guests. To create a kitchen-dining room project, you should not only prepare for significant financial and labor costs, but you will also need to visit certain authorities, document the redevelopment and protect yourself from problems that may arise in the future.
Before combining the kitchen and living room in one room, you need to take into account the fact that you will have to abandon the centralized gas supply in favor of electricity, because according to the standards, there should be no gas installations in the residential premises. It is also prohibited to bring pipes that are responsible for water supply and drainage into the living room area.
Combining the kitchen with the living room and dining room will allow you to get more space
To avoid these problems, many designers advise using a trick and not tearing down the entire wall that separates the spaces. The best option is to demolish part of the wall, where sliding doors are then installed. This step will allow you to avoid some documentary problems, and will also make it possible to make the kitchen a completely isolated room. On the Internet you can see a good selection of photos of kitchens and living rooms together.
How to zone rooms: photos of the interiors of a kitchen-living room of 20 sq. m
In a combined space, it is important to perform competent zoning, which can be done not only with the help of a sliding door, but also through the use of different floor coverings or surface colors. An interesting option for delimiting space is to move the kitchen onto a podium, which is located slightly above the living room level. The disadvantage of this option is the inconvenience of cleaning, as well as the likelihood of injury from a kind of step.
If we are talking about organizing a private home, then in this case you can dispose of your personal space at your own request. More often, in a private home, the living room, kitchen and dining room are not separated by solid walls, and false walls or shelving are used for zoning. According to the rules for arranging rooms, the kitchen is located first, then the living room and dining room. If we are talking about arranging a trapezoidal space, then the rooms are located at an angle on each side of the kitchen.
Helpful advice! If you look at photos of the interiors of a kitchen-living room in a private house, you will notice that an indispensable attribute of the premises is a beautiful fireplace installed in the living room area. It will help create a cozy atmosphere in the room.
When combining rooms, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the disadvantages of this project option. The main problem is the noise of household appliances. The refrigerator, dishwasher, blender and meat grinder are considered the loudest appliances that can interfere with communication between people in the living room area. Another problem is the need to constantly maintain order in the kitchen, because it is, in fact, part of the living room. You also need to take into account that if you purchase a hood that is not too powerful, then all the odors from the kitchen will immediately enter the living room area.
Drawing for a homemade headset
Manufacturers of kitchen furniture today offer their customers and potential clients a huge selection of finished products or custom-made projects. In stores you can find a wide variety of models of all colors, shapes, sizes and materials.
However, many craftsmen with skill and proper construction experience make furniture with their own hands. This task also requires a correctly drawn up drawing. What criteria should be displayed on the diagram:
- Dimensions of the future headset.
- Type of design and folding mechanism if such a function is available.
- Materials and individual parts, types of fasteners.
- For upholstered furniture, the upholstery and type of filling must be indicated.
In the process of preparing a drawing, you should focus on the plan of the room as a whole in order to correctly correlate the dimensions, location of furniture and window openings.
Drawings for a kitchen made of wood and metal (stone or other finishing material) have a number of significant differences, which the master simply needs to know.
Measurements
Before constructing a set and developing its layout, you need to take measurements, which will determine the size of the cabinets.
To do this, you must first measure the dimensions:
- length of walls along which furniture is supposed to be placed;
- walls in height;
- distance from wall to window;
- distance from wall to door.
The kitchen drawing must be accurate to the centimeter. Otherwise, there is a risk of inconsistencies and the kitchen will have to be redone
If the dimensions are taken into account inaccurately, the layout will be even more inaccurate and, as a result, the furniture will not be suitable for the kitchen.
Next, the dimensions of the cabinets are calculated. The standard sizes of table cabinets in typical kitchens, as a rule, are 85 cm in height and 45-50 cm in depth. The width of the cabinets varies from 30 to 80 cm.
Important : In the age of the Internet, you don’t even have to draw cabinets with your own hands. If you plan to make furniture of standard sizes, then the drawings can be found on the Internet. There are websites that contain detailed drawings of all standard cabinets. All that remains is to download them.
Which cabinet sizes are preferred is determined separately based on the convenience and size of the kitchen. If the kitchen is non-standard, then, of course, you will have to develop a non-standard layout and make non-standard cabinets, changing their sizes to fit the size of the kitchen.
If the size of the kitchen allows it, then sometimes it is more profitable to make furniture of standard sizes, albeit with your own hands.
If your kitchen has a non-standard layout, then there is only one way out - to develop an individual project, since standard sets will simply be out of place here
The advantages are as follows:
- you can purchase ready-made fronts for cabinets, which will make your home-made set much more aesthetically pleasing in appearance;
- you don’t have to develop the drawing yourself, which reduces the risk of errors;
- It’s easier to choose a tabletop.
Wall cabinets have the same dimensions as floor cabinets in width. Although other schemes are now possible - design decisions are based on the difference in size, which makes the interior more original. The depth of the wall cabinets reaches 30 cm. The standard height is 71.5 cm. But, if you are developing the layout of a small kitchen, you can increase the height of the wall cabinets. In this case, changes are made to the schemes.
Important : When developing a kitchen layout and furniture, it is necessary to take into account that the distance at which the cabinets are hung should not be too large, otherwise it will be difficult for the housewife to use them.
Drawing for a wooden kitchen
Making a kitchen set from wood is an exclusively jewelry work, because every detail requires exact compliance with the given parameters. The same strict requirements are imposed on the quality of the drawing, so a master with the proper artistic skills can independently prepare a plan diagram.
Three types of drawings must be drawn on paper:
The first diagram should display the set as a whole, indicating all the furniture elements: dining table, worktops, wall and floor cabinets. All objects depicted must be presented to scale, but with actual dimensions included in the footnotes. The plans of the first type highlight the features of the external decor of the furniture set and the location of the set in the conditions of the available free space.
The second type of drawings contains information about built-in accessories: pull-out systems, open shelves, folding and sliding panels. Furniture is displayed on paper not only when folded, but also when unfolded. This is important for the optimal organization of free space and kitchen interior.
The third drawing shows the details: the dimensions of each workpiece, its shape and type of fastening. Also subject to accounting are fasteners: screws, self-tapping screws and metal corners, dowels and nails.
All prepared drawings must be as realistic as possible, and the quality of the plan diagram must allow the work to be carried out without gross errors.
Content
- Creating a project: where to start
- Standard sizes of kitchen cabinets
- Design principles for custom cabinets
- Ready-made direct kitchen projects
- Options for drawings of corner sets
- Cabinet for built-in oven
- Sink cabinet
- Cabinet with drawers
- Bottom cabinet with hinged fronts
- Corner cabinet: two options
- Cabinet for telescopic hood
- Wall cabinet with hinged fronts
- Wall mounted corner cabinet: two options
Drawing for other types of kitchen
Modern interior styles involve the frequent use of not only wood for kitchen construction, but also other types of materials (natural or artificial stone, metal, plastic and glass).
For independent work, you need a slightly different type of drawing, which shows the features of the floor covering for the future set, the supply of electrical wiring and other communications, as well as the features of the masonry (stone or brick).
Using independent drawings, you can build any kitchen: 4 or 6 meters long, any shape and type of construction.
